Sunday, June 3, 2007

Birds - How To Tell If Yours Is Sick

By Michael Russell


In this article we're going to discuss how to tell if you've got a sick bird on your hands.

Unlike people, birds can't tell you when something hurts or they just feel like garbage. So how do you tell when your bird is under the weather?

Most sick birds get that way because of poor nutrition and stress. Poor nutrition is more from what a bird eats than from how much, as birds don't need a lot of food. Stress can come from a number of things such as poor environment and rapid changes in temperature. A happy bird is usually a healthy bird.

A problem with identifying if your bird is sick is that birds tend to hide their health from you. This is a built in ability that birds use to keep other animals from attacking them. It is part of their survival instinct. Because of this ability it may be a couple of weeks before a bird owner even knows that his bird is sick. Therefore, in order to determine that there is a problem with your bird you have to be observant at all times. There are signs to look out for. These include discharge from the eyes, change in eye color, closing of the eyes, swelling around the eyes, discharge from the nose, soiling of the feathers, sneezing, trouble eating, reduced appetite, fluffed up feathers, inactivity, droopy wings, change in routine, change in vocal habits, weight loss, problems with equilibrium, inability to perch, limping, swollen feet or joints, change in droppings, open mouthed breathing when at rest, lumps on the body, and any sign of bleeding. Some of these symptoms are very serious.

If you notice any of the above and suspect your bird is sick, immediately make an appointment with a vet. Take him there in his cage or some suitable container. Don't ever take your bird to the vet with him perched on your shoulder. Your pet will not be protected. Whatever container you use make sure it is covered. If you take it in its cage don't clean the cage. This can present evidence to the vet that can help diagnose the bird's problem.

After taking the bird to the vet and a diagnosis is made, take the bird home immediately. Home care at this stage is very important. Keep your bird warm and try to encourage it to eat. Sick birds have usually stopped eating so it is important for them to eat well to get their strength back. If they are unable to eat then they may need to be hospitalized.

Unfortunately, by the time an owner realizes his bird is sick, the bird is more than likely seriously ill. Therefore it becomes even more critical to give your bird the best care possible. Most owners go to pet stores first to try to treat the bird instead of going straight to the vet. This only makes the problem worse. However, if you catch the bird's illness quickly enough you'll have a very good chance of getting him back on his feet.


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Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Birds
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Birds - Egg Laying Can Kill Your Pet

By Michael Russell

Birds lay eggs; that's what they do. But did you know that this could be deadly for your pet?

My beloved bird is a cockatiel. She's a beautiful bird and a great companion. About twice a year she gets in a mood to respond to her God given natural activity of egg laying. The first time she ever did this it was really cute.

The problem was, the egg wasn't fertilized, so it wouldn't hatch. So after a while of the egg not hatching, she determined the trick was to lay another egg, only to get the same results. This led to more eggs until she had six or seven eggs she was watching over.

When I first got her I did some research on the Internet about cockatiels and bird care. So when this egg laying event was happening, I remembered reading something about it depleting them of calcium. I went back and read more about it. Sure enough, laying eggs depletes them of calcium and that is deadly to them.

I decided I had to take away her eggs. I didn't want to lose her over this. So, away they went. I made sure she watched me do it so she would know it's dangerous to lay eggs in her cage. They won't lay them if they are not comfortable with the nesting area.

That didn't stop her. She started again and I took them away again. After a few rounds of this, I decided to pull the bedding out of the cage, thinking it would make it less 'homey' for her and she would knock of the egg laying. It did stop for the season, but a season later she got the call to lay again and we resumed the battle.

As the days and weeks went by, she insisted she was going to lay the eggs and I insisted she wasn't. But, she was winning, in spite of my removing them. Then it happened...

One day I walked by her cage and there she was, in the bottom of her cage, still and silent and her limbs and head were twisted into a nearly grotesque position and I couldn't tell if she was even still alive. I was devastated; even to the point of not being able to react.

The evidence seemed clear that I would lose her. This was not a goldfish, but a friend. We talked and played every day. We ate and went to sleep at the same time. She sat on my shoulder and cheered me on as I worked at my computer. There would be no replacement bird; no more than you can replace your child.

I couldn't think right so I had to call on a friend. As we raced down the highway towards the veterinarian, I kept talking to my bird hoping to keep her awake and maybe get that little 'peep' to tell me she was going to be okay.

We rushed her into the emergency room and the vet rushed her behind those swinging doors. Had I seen the last of my bird?

They came out and asked me to step back into another room, where I waited to hear the news. I was waiting for the 'bird nurse' to come out and break it to me, when the door opened and I only saw her back. She walked backwards through the door and as she cleared the door she turned around to reveal the white cage I had brought my pet bird in.

Inside that cage was a vibrant, confused and curious cockatiel who saw me and let out a loud chirp as if to ask, "What's up?" My bird was going to make it and doing just fine!

She had gone into a seizure because of calcium deficiency from laying the eggs. They gave her a shot of calcium to revive her. They also gave her a shot that was supposed to keep her from laying eggs. They said it might need to be done every month.

Sure enough, several weeks went by and she was back in the egg laying business. I didn't know what to do. I couldn't keep taking her to the veterinarian every month for expensive shots, but I couldn't go through that again.

I sat looking at her cage one day thinking about how I could make it less desirable for her to lay eggs. Finally, the light bulb went off.

I jumped up, went to the pet store and bought her a cage big enough for a parrot (remember, she's only a cockatiel). The reason I wanted this was because of the big grates on the bottom of the cage. She can still walk around the bottom of the cage, but she cannot nest an egg there because it falls through the grate.

Oh, she tried. She tried one time. She laid that egg and stared at it for days as it lay underneath that grate and she couldn't get to it. That was the last egg she ever laid. She doesn't need the shot either. She's in fine health and we're enjoying each other more than ever.

Isn't that grate (uh, great)?

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Birds

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A Quicker Way To Train Parrots

By Dave Womach


Parrots are intelligent animals. Some studies have proven that certain species of parrots have intelligence levels comparable to that of a four year old child! Yet it’s glaringly obvious that people have no idea how to harness a parrot’s ability to learn. So I thought I’d shed a little light on how I’ve adopted some dog training techniques to get parrots to respond to training much quicker than traditional methods.

This technique is called “shaping”. Shaping is a training method that trains parrots to think. It doesn’t lure them with food, or punish parrots for doing a behavior incorrectly. Instead it works on this principal…

“Parrots will continue to do behaviors that bring them pleasure, with greater and greater frequency – and continue to do so until the behavior no longer brings them pleasure”

When I’m training one of my parrots to learn to step up onto my hand, I don’t just shove my hand in front of them and force them off their perch. After all, the parrot might not want to step up. The parrot might be sleepy, upset, not want to be taken away from his food bowl, or a whole host of other reasons.

So instead, I like to reward parrots for coming to me on their own free will. I like to let the parrot train himself that coming to me brings him pleasure. Here’s what I mean…

Let’s say that our parrot is happily playing on the top of his cage, and you want him to train him to step up onto your hand. To do this place your hand about 12-24 inches from your parrot, and observe what he does. Does he back away even further? If so you should back up also, until you’re far enough away that your parrot is showing relaxed body language.

Then start watching for tiny movements your parrot starts to make towards your hand. At first, parrots will usually do nothing. But be patient and start small. Look for your parrot to look at your hand. When he does say “good”, and reward with a favorite treat of his.

Parrots will catch on pretty quick and realize that all they have to do to get a treat is look at your hand. When your parrot gets to this stage, demand more from your parrot for a treat. Make your parrot take a step towards your hand… even a small step, tell him “good” and reward him again.

Continue to slowly demand your parrot get closer and closer to your hand before giving him his treats, until he’s actually stepping onto your hand. But be careful, parrots can tend to not trust you. So the first time your parrot steps on your hand, don’t think the training is done. Parrots will feel betrayed if you coax them onto your hand and them pick them up fast.

Instead let your parrot step on your hand without picking him up, and gradually work on rewarding your parrot for letting you pick him an inch of the ground, then two, three, four etc. Until every time you walk over to his cage, he’ll run over to you expecting that he can step up onto your hand to get his treat.

Training parrots in this way teaches parrots to problem solve. It teaches them to figure out what you want them to do, and makes training other behaviors in the future much easier.

To discover more parrot training tips and techniques, sign up for Chet Womach's free parrot training newsletter where you'll discover how to fix dozens of parrot behavior problems.

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How Many Toes Does A Parrot Have?

by Anna Hart

Parrots come in many colors: gray, brown, red, green, yellow, blue, white, black, and various shades of all of those. Parrots can be very small, 4 inches (10 centimeters) – or very large, 40” (100 centimeters). Some parrots learn to talk well, while others never talk at all.

There are certain things, though, that all parrots have in common. They all like to live in warm places, for one thing. In addition, consider the following four similarities.

1. Beak: Every parrot has a curved, hooked beak. The beak is very strong, and able to inflict a deep wound. Its primary purpose, though, is to crack open strong nut shells or tear apart other food. A parrot uses its bill for “transportation” at times, too, pulling itself to a higher branch or perch with the strong bill.

2. Body: Every parrot has an upright body. Most birds, by comparison, have a horizontal body. Parrots’ bodies are upright like humans.

3. Legs: Parrots have 2 short legs.

4. Toes: How many toes does a parrot have? All parrots have 4 toes on each foot. Parrot toes are zygodactyl. That means the first and fourth toes are turned backward. The second and third toes turn forward. Song birds also have 4 toes, but they have 3 toes forward and 1 toe backward.

Useful Parrot Toes

Parrot toes make for awkward walking, but they are very useful tools. Parrots can use the 2-forward, 2-backward combination as humans use a thumb and finger, grasping objects tightly between back and front toes.

The 4 parrot toes produce a foot pattern that lets them grasp branches and move along a branch. Progress is always sideways in slow, deliberate steps.

The 4 parrot toes also enable a parrot to grasp food in its foot. Using its 2 front toes and 1 of the back toes, it holds the food tightly as it bites off pieces with its beak. A parrot usually holds the perch with its right foot, and lifts food to its mouth with the left foot.

Parrot toes are useful for tricks, too. Many parrots delight in showing off for your praise by dangling upside down from a perch or the ceiling of their cage, often by only 1 toe! In the wild, this trick helps them reach food.

Parrot Toes in Training

The first step in training a parrot is to acquaint the parrot with your touch. Its 8 parrot toes can be your bridge to success in this. Gently touch those parrot toes for a moment, and then withdraw your hand. Wait a few second, and then reach into the cage to touch the toes again. Let your parrot see that nothing bad happens when you touch its toes. When it accepts this touch, move on to touch its legs, and work your way up the parrot. Be sure other family members also touch the bird frequently so it does not become a one-person parrot.

When you are ready to finger train your bird, those parrot toes will again be important. Choose the evening, when your parrot has eaten and is less lively. In a quiet room, open the cage door slowly, and put your index finger into the cage. Slowly touch the parrots’ abdomen and it will hop onto your finger, clinging with its toes to maintain balance. Do not remove it from the cage the first few days. Simply repeat your finger training. When it is at ease with the action, slowly pull your finger with the parrot on it toward the cage door where you have placed a treat. With patience, your parrot will soon respond to a “Step Up” command and get on your finger when asked.

Always remember that a parrot will never step down – only up. Always hold your finger or a perch above the parrot’s toes.

A clever trick that is quickly learned by a parrot is a cute wave of those 4 parrot toes. You can also teach it to put its foot to its beak on command.

Parrot Toes and Toys

It is important to keep parrot toes busy and exercised. Parrot foot toys are an answer that provides entertainment as well as exercise. Parrot foot toys are small enough for a parrot to hold with its foot. The parrot will then chew the toy, getting great enjoyment out of its destruction!

How Many Toes Does a Parrot Have? Exactly the right number to walk, climb trees, move along branches, eat food, learn tricks, and play.

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© 2007, Anna Hart. An avid reader and researcher, Anna explores many parrot species, and offers other interesting parrot information at www.parrots-of-the-world.com. If you would like to learn more about how to train your parrot, you won’t want to miss Anna’s advice.

Birds - Teaching Your Parrot To Talk - Part II

By Michael Russell

In this last of our series of teaching your bird to talk we're finally going to get into the training process itself.

The best time to teach your bird to talk, if at all possible, is when the bird is right out of its nest. It is best to start training your bird while it is still on formula. When birds are this young they bond much easier with people. Practice patience with your bird and it will respond well. Don't expect a young parrot to start talking right away. While it is still "clucking" for food it is not going to be interested in learning speech, but exposing them to words at this young an age will prepare them for when they are ready to talk. They will recognize words at this age even though they are too young to talk. Smaller parrots will begin to speak between 4 and 6 months while larger parrots will begin to speak between 6 and 12 months.

After a year most parrots will not learn any new words. Some may still learn a new word from time to time but for the most part their learning days are over. Therefore picking an older bird that is also afraid of people gives you almost no chance of coming away with a talker. As for the sex of the bird, males are much better talkers than females. The problem is many times it is not possible to tell the sex of a bird just by looking at it. A blood test is often required.

The best time of day to teach your bird to talk is either early in the morning or late at night. This corresponds with the times when birds gather to eat and congregate with other birds. During these times parrots are very noisy. Don't try to quiet them. Just get used to it.

In order to make learning easier, positive reinforcement is a great tool. When your bird begins to talk, reward it with food, but try to give him healthy snacks. As this reinforcement continues your parrot will more look forward to the training sessions.

When teaching your bird to talk, turn off all TV sets and radios. You want it absolutely quiet. Let in lots of sunlight. You need to be the center of the bird's attention. When you speak to it, the bird will take notice. Say the word you are teaching the bird in a loud clear voice and hesitate between each repetition of the word. Try to associate the word with some kind of action. Birds learn quicker this way.

When teaching a bird to name objects pick an object that is small and bright in color. If the bird gets the word reward it by giving the bird the object.

Some easy words for parrots to learn are grape, paper, box, corn, carrot, nail, water, treat, bean, and rock. So try starting with these words.

The first words your parrot learns will be the hardest. After that they will begin to come easier until the bird reaches the age where it can't learn any more.

Teaching your bird to talk can be a very fun and rewarding experience. Have patience and follow the above guidelines and you should find that your parrot develops quite a vocabulary. You may, however, have a lot of trouble getting him to be quiet.


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Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Birds
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Birds - Teaching Your Parrot To Talk - Part I

By Michael Russell

In this article we're going to discuss how to teach your parrot to speak. Getting him to shut up afterwards is another thing altogether.

Don't you find it amazing that something other than a human being can actually speak the English Language or any language for that matter? Parrots are certainly an interesting species of bird. For that matter they're just plain interesting, period.

Well, if you want to teach your parrot to talk the first thing you're going to have to do is carefully pick the breed of parrot. Some breeds talk better than others.

The smaller species of parrot sometimes have a difficult time learning how to speak and when they finally do, their speech can be very difficult to understand. Parakeets, ringnecks, alexandrine, plumheads, cockatiels, conures, lorikeets and lovebirds are not your best talkers. Oh sure, there is always the exception among these but the general rule is, don't expect too much. So if talking ability is important to you then stay away from this lot.

Your best bet to come away with a bird that you can teach to recite the Gettysberg address is a red tailed, African Gray parrot. In general, these birds have amazing talking abilities, but every now and then you're going to run into one who just refuses to say a word. The reason for this is a puzzle to us all.

If you're looking at New World Amazon parrots, your best bets for the talkers are the Yellow Napes, Blue Fronts and Double Yellowheads. However, these birds have to be exposed to speech at a very young age or the chances of them talking is slim to none. Any Amazon parrot with a yellow head is usually a good talker. Macaws are okay talkers but not great. When they learn to talk they have very loud scratchy voices and a very limited vocabulary. Cockatoos can also be taught to speak but, like macaws, they usually have a very limited vocabulary. However, unlike macaws, they have rather sweet soft voices.

The next thing you have to do is choose a bird with just the right temperament. You should never pick a bird that is afraid and shy. Your best talkers are usually birds that are mean biters. So if you don't mind having to keep a supply of Band-Aids around you'll do just fine. Birds that cower will never learn to talk. The more aggressive they are the better. Birds that laugh a lot and constrict their pupils are not showing fear but definite aggression. Just don't get too close.

If at all possible, try to choose a bird that is still being hand fed. Most likely you will have to get these birds from a breeder rather than from a pet store. Birds that are this young usually still have pinfeathers sticking out of their head and neck.

In our next article in this series we're going to go over how to prepare to teach your bird how to speak, how to feed it, when to start training and a number of other important things you should know.


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Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Birds
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How to Draw Birds Easily

By Jack Wilson

To draw birds as Audubon did is very demanding and difficult. Even though his drawings were better as art than as objective science, they really did look a lot like the birds he claimed them to represent. I have no advice for those who want to follow in his footsteps, except to go to a traditional art school for years and years.

But if you only want to draw birds simply, just apply a pencil to paper and start making some shapes. When it somewhat resembles what might be a bird, put in an eye and a beak and a topknot and it will be acceptable, maybe even funny.

Almost any shape can be made to look like a bird. It can be made out of squares, circles, triangles, rectangles, polygons, parallelograms, or any combination. You can draw a picture of anything and add an eye, some feathers, a beak, maybe a tail and it will call up the image of a bird. You can take an existing picture of a piece of fruit, a guitar, a jar, a box, a suitcase and add the features of a bird and there you are.

You could write a whole story illustrated with bird figures like these, especially a children‘s book. No need to worry about legs and feet and tails, just sort of a profile. For some examples of bird drawings visit the website below.

I was tempted to call this article Bird Droppings but the ghost of Audubon came to me and threatened to illustrate my cloacus if I dared.

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Jack Wilson is a writer and artist in Tempe AZ.

http://www.geocities.com/galimatio/Birds.html

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What do Birds like Eating?

By Geomil Georgiev

What do birds like eating? Here we came to my favorite topic : I am a great glutton that is why I try to please my birds .

The main parrot food is millet. It is sold in every ”bird” shop . There should always be enough millet into the bird cage , birds know themselves how much to eat . They also enjoy oats very much but only oats ( unpeeled , absolutely natural ) which I haven't seen anywhere in shops : – ((. It is found only as an addition in combined foods . As a compromise variant oat kernels can be given .

They also enjoy sunflower seeds , but not baked of course Give sunflower seeds to your bird only several times per month because it contains lots of fats and the bird gets stout. Before giving it to the bird it is good to crash it slightly (thus they will consume it easily) .

They absolutely adore fresh vegetables! They die for cucumbers , lettuce, carrots, peppers and pepper seeds ( they should not be hot !). They also eat cabbage . Be careful with nitrates ! They are particularly harmful for birds as they can even kill them If it is possible prevent buying foods cultivated in green – houses.

Other " green food ” that they like very much is ordinary fresh and tender grass . I mean ryegrass , clover especially couch – grass or something likes , but not that grass ! Something that you should never give them is parsley ! I don ' t know why , but it is written so in the books and I have ' n ' t made experiments what will happen to them if I feed birds with parsley .

Give them fresh fruit at any possibility apples (They like cores because of the seeds ), pears , plums and also pumpkin. I haven't noticed them to like citrus fruit .

All fruit and vegetables should be well washed .

G ive them hard – boiled egg ( a quarter of egg per two birds ) at least once a month. From it they supply themselves with proteins and vitamin D.

Don't throw the shell away ! Give it to them finely crushed . It provides them with calcium .

Another resource of calcium is chalk . Birds gnaw it with appetite so be sure always to provide chalk in the cage .

Birds like eating bread. It doesn't matter what kind it is . Put a piece of slightly damped bread between the bars and they will tackle it so that your appetite will come back to you.

There should always be sand in the bird cage ( that is why I told you in the beginning that you should buy two vessels for food ). They need the sand in order to assimilate food easier. Food does not go to the bird's stomach directly. Before that it stays for some time into its throat. There due to enzymes and the sand all grain foods taken get broken to pieces, get soft and get digested preliminary . The sand should be fine , that is why you must sift it well and to remove the coarse fractions , because they can block the bird ' s throat . It is compulsory to wash the sand , to boil it for a sort time in hot water, to dry it and only then to give it to the birds . Sea – sand is very appropriate , but it must be well – washed from salt !!! Salt is not very useful for birds .

Geomil Georgiev is owner and editor of http://www.birdscomfort.com where you can find information on every type of pet birds. BirdsComfort provides detailed information in decorative, large, custom, acrylic, antique, wooden, and discount bird cages sale, as well as cage covers,bird cage playstands, bird perches, bird toys, bird swings and bird foods

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Parrot Rescue - Michigan Has an Answer

by Anna Hart


Pet parrot rescue in Michigan is an example of what it should be in every state and in every country. KARE, a pet parrot rescue group in Michigan, is in business not only to rescue unwanted pet parrots. They also adopt out pet parrots that have been rescued, and educate people about parrots. Reading their mission statement is encouraging. In it they state that they believe all pet birds deserve quality care, love, and respect. They also believe there should be a place where bird owners can find the most current bird care information possible.

The pet parrot rescue in Michigan puts its mission statement to work in many ways. Usually this means parrot rescue on a small scale. Perhaps the biggest parrot rescue project in recent years was the one that followed Hurricane Katrina. KARE deployed rescuers to Baton Rouge, Louisiana in support of Hurricane Katrina's bird victims, parrots or not. The parrot rescuers joined the huge animal rescue effort that was just getting underway. Pet parrot rescue in Michigan became pet parrot rescue in Louisiana.

How It Works

Pet parrot rescue in Michigan, KARE takes its name from the words Knapptime, Adoption, Rescue, and Education. Those three branches form the basis for any successful parrot rescue program.

1. Rescue: Parrot rescue always begins with rescuing pet parrots. This does not always mean rescue such as was needed after Hurricane Katrina. It may be as simple as accepting, from owners, pet parrots that are no longer wanted. Parrots can live for 50 years or more. Many owners do not think about that when purchasing a parrot. Some time later, as the owner's life changes, he or she can no longer care for the parrot. In some cases, the owner dies, and the parrot is left behind. In other cases, the parrot becomes aggressive, and the owner no longer wants the pet. Parrot rescue accepts these parrots and cares for them.

2. Adoption: Parrot rescue involves finding new homes for parrots that have been rescued. This is easy with some parrots. They are well behaved, beautiful, and talkative. The adopting family can get a good pet for less than they would pay elsewhere. Finding homes for some rescued parrots is more difficult. The bird may need training to correct behavioral problems. It may have been neglected or abused. The parrot rescue group must evaluate the rescued parrots, and find appropriate homes. In some case, the best home must be a shelter or sanctuary, since it will never again do well in a pet situation.

3. Education: The third prong involved in parrot rescue is education. The pet parrot rescue in Michigan works to educate people who are interested in bird ownership. They want to help them learn the proper care of pet birds. This includes instruction before purchase about the bird's expected life span. It includes information about proper feeding of parrots and how large a cage a parrot needs. Parrot rescue also should educate people about the options they have if they find they cannot keep a parrot.

If You Need Parrot Rescue

People who reach a point where they cannot keep a pet parrot should contact a place such as this pet parrot rescue in Michigan. Similar parrot rescue groups exist in a number of states.

The reasons for being unable to keep your parrot may be as simple as being unable to afford proper care for the bird. You may have insufficient finances to take the parrot to a veterinarian.

Some people cannot keep a parrot when they relocate overseas. Even relocation that involves a smaller home, or an apartment, may make it logistically impossible to keep the bird.

You could try to sell your parrot, and some people do. Prospective owners may be leery, though, of buying a parrot from a newspaper classified as. They may have heard of parrots that are sold because of aggression. Donating your pet parrot to a parrot rescue group will not give you money in return, but you will know that the parrot will be placed in the right permanent home.

Parrot rescue groups often have waiting lists of adoptive homes. They do everything they can to be sure the bird gets the best possible home.

Kudos for You

Parrot rescue groups often operate in the red. It is costly to care for a number of parrots and other birds. They require numerous cages, hundreds of pounds of food on a regular basis, and modest salaries for their workers.

You will be greatly appreciated when you donate, with your parrot, its cage, perches, playground, toys, and food.

©2007, Anna Hart. An avid reader and researcher, Anna explores many parrot breeds and offers more parrot rescue information at http://www.parrots-of-the-world.com. She also offers advice on the care and training of parrots. If you need parrot rescue for a pet you can no longer keep, you won’t want to miss Anna’s advice.

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Why Parrots Stop Talking

by Anna Hart


Why parrots stop talking is not always the problem. Some people long for their parrots to stop talking, simply because they talk incessantly once they have learned a few phrases. Parrots are very sociable, and want to communicate with other members of their "flock" – which means the people with whom they live. So a talking parrot is probably more common.

There are times, however, when parrots stop talking, and then the worried owner wants to know why parrots stop talking.

Reasons Why Parrots Stop Talking

There are several reasons why parrots stop talking. We cannot give a complete list here, but one of the following may apply to your parrot.

1. Some talking parrots stop talking for a few days when they arrive in a new home. They are adjusting to the change. They find themselves suddenly with a new "flock" in a new environment. Even a talking parrot will take time to sort things out in its mind before it feels comfortable.

2. Sometimes talking parrots stop talking when they are feeling ill. If your parrot has been talking, and stops with no apparent reason, consider health issues. You may need to take it to an avian veterinarian.

3. Talking parrots will "pout" and stop talking when they are unhappy with a change you have made. It may be you have moved the furniture in the room where the parrot spends most of its time. Maybe you are wearing an article of clothing the parrot does not like.

4. Another reason talking parrots may stop talking is the introduction of a new family member, either human or another pet. The parrot must work through the change, and stops talking while adjusting.

5. Sometimes a talking parrot has been frightened, perhaps by a prey animal. The animal may be outside, but visible from the parrot's cage.

6. Finally, a talking parrot may stop talking if it becomes bored with its own chatter, and hears few words from you. Remember that your parrot talks to communicate with you. It is in a "foreign" land, away from those that speak its language, and is trying to learn your language to communicate.

What to Do When Parrots Stop Talking

There are several things you can do to encourage a talking parrot that has stopped talking.

If your talking parrot is in new surroundings, make it as comfortable as possible. Give it time to adjust, but while it's adjusting, talk to it gently and frequently. As soon as it decides the new surroundings are safe, it will probably begin talking again.

If you suspect your talking parrot's sudden silence is an early sign of illness, look at its eyes and feathers. If you detect dullness in either, you may need to have an avian (bird) veterinarian check your parrot.

Sometimes the answer is as simple as finding a change you have made in the previous few days or week. Did you move a vase that used to reflect the light? Did you move the parrot's cage a few feet one way or another? Try to remember what may have changed and put it back the way it was. Your talking parrot may quickly speak up to thank you.

Check for predators, even though you know they cannot reach the parrot. A large, predatory bird flying past the window, or sitting in a tree outside can be the reason a talking parrot stops talking.

The best solution to helping a talking parrot find its tongue is to spend more time talking to and around the bird. Take it into other rooms with you and the family so it will feel like being a part of the conversation.

Talk to your bird as much as you would talk to a family member or very good friend, and before long, it should begin talking again.

©2007, Anna Hart. An avid reader and researcher, Anna explores many parrot species, and offers other interesting parrot information at http://www.parrots-of-the-world.com If you would like to learn more about how to train your parrot, you won’t want to miss Anna’s advice.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anna_Hart

Cockatiel - Why They Make The Best First Parrot

By Rick Roberts

This article focuses on the new bird enthusiast and choosing their first bird to own. In this article I will explain why I think the cockatiel is my overall pick for the new bird owner and why. I will also give important comparisons between the cockatiel and other parrot breeds such as the African Grey, Eclectus, Conure, and others.

There are lots and lots of different breeds of parrots out there. Some are very good for petting; some are not. However, for many people who haven’t own any pet parrot or any pet birds, many will feel that the cockatiel is an excellent starter bird in the parrot family. Cockatiels are usually associated with having a good personality, very friendly, good talkers, a bird you can cuddle with some what. They also make very good companions.

Cockatiels have been kept and breed successfully in many countries all around the world. Cockatiels can be considered as the most widely kept parrot other than parakeet or budgie (budgerigar). There are lots of research material available and many experts on cockatiels. The learning curve for the care and up-keep of cockatiels is minor and many keepers of them become experts of the cockatiel bird and their care rather quickly.

Of all of the breeds of parrots the cockatiel is the most likely bird to satisfy the new bird owner almost immediately. Other breeds of parrots can be very nippy, biting parrots. Most tend to bond with a single individual and sometimes are even rude to people other than the owner or person they bond with. The cockatiel generally doesn’t portray any of these traits, although some might, it is rare.

Okay, given the above information about cockatiels I don’t want to say that all bird owners should start with a cockatiel or even imply that all bird owners should own one. What I do want to say is that if you are new to birds as pets you really should consider the cockatiel as a first bird because they are so easy to afford, take care of, and enjoy.

Price

Often price is the deciding factor for the potential new bird owner. Every new bird enthusiast dreams of owning their dream parrot but that new pet can be very costly; sometimes in the thousands of dollars to own.

In the US, and most other countries around the world, the price of a cockatiel is very small compared to say a conure or one of the larger parrots such as the African grey. Prices for cockatiels range anywhere from as low as $30 to start with, or slightly higher for hand fed babies that are meticulously cared for by their breeders.

Of course one should realize that with birds, as is other pets, the more popular color mutation or rarity of the color can raise the price of a cockatiel. Also a cockatiel that has been hand fed will bring a higher selling price because the breeder has spent much of their time caring for the infant bird. Compared to “parent fed” cockatiels hand fed birds are usually about 30 to 50 percent higher in selling price. I will note though if you have the choice between parent fed and hand fed, can afford the hand fed bird, get the hand fed bird. The reason being is that the breeder has given you an excellent head start in getting the most enjoyment out of owning a bird because they have had so much interaction with them.

Noise level

All birds make noise. Some very little and then some make a lot of noise. One of the first things a new bird owner realizes right away is that all birds are “vocal” to some point. By this I mean that all birds make noise. Generally a good rule of thumb is the larger the bird the more noise that is possible from the bird.

Now, granted that the cockatiel will be possibly noisier than say a finche, parakeet, or even a pair of love birds, they will in no way compare to the noise level of a Macaw or Amazon parrot. This fact should be taken into consideration especially if the new owner lives in a apartment housing unit or any area where noise level among neighbors could be a problem.

Every new bird owner would like to have a bird that can talk, but even that can be an annoyance with some of the larger birds. The African Grey, which is by far the nest talker of the parrot species, is known to be able mimic or say just about anything it hears often enough. I remember a friend of mine had an African Grey that could mimic the sound of his old analog dial phone ringing. While it was cute at first it quickly became annoying if you spent very much time with the bird.

For the most part cockatiels can live in complete harmony in just about any community environment. There are exceptions but generally cockatiels are low volume and usually only “speak” or mimic when they are first awakened or seeking attention for food or affection from their owners.

Talking abilities

No parrot really talks, rather they mimic what they have heard enough and are able to mimic. A bird can not carry on a conversation with a human. Although some of the best talkers of the parrot species can do a real impressive job of making it appear as they can. I once knew a friend that had an Eclectus that could sing “I want to be a cowboy” by Kid Rock and did it so well if he had a band playing the musical part you would swear it was Kid Rock singing the song himself.

The bigger the parrot the better it will be able to mimic. The African Grey, Eclectus, and Amazon parrots are the best at talking. They have the best clarity to their voices, if you will, than any other breed of parrots. A cockatiel can do an excellent job of mimicking too. Although, their voice tends to be a lot more rough or scratchy than the bigger parrots, they are easily understood at what they do master in mimicking.

Now one should also keep in mind that not all cockatiels will mimic. Most will to some extent, but not all will. It is common for the bird to say “Hello” or other small phrases, but it is also common for them to never utter a discernable word. If having a talking bird is your prime goal you might consider a larger parrot before getting a cockatiel.

One thing to note is that it seems that hand fed cockatiels are more likely to talk than the parent fed ones. I guess this would all stem back to the early human intervention in their young lives and their willingness to adapt to pleasing the human they are most in contact with.

Good personality

As a rule cockatiels are very well behaved when handled or when left alone for long periods of time. While any bird will bite or nip at you if they feel threatened, it is rare for a cockatiel to display such aggressions. As mentioned earlier in this article cockatiels are most often willing to cuddle with their human partners and actually crave this kind of attention in some cases.

They are also very good with children. The only problem with cockatiels and children is that often children do not realize how fragile the bird is and can often hurt them very badly or even kill them if handled too roughly.

Cockatiels are rarely moody or quick tempered. They will bite as any bird will when they feel threatened or defensive, but they bite for the most part is harmless. I suppose to a small child it may hurt a little more but to most all adults the fear of being bitten will be worse than the bite should you ever be bitten by one.

Compact in size

One of the biggest advantages of owning a cockatiel first is the low cost of housing them and their up-keep. Since they usually no bigger than the average man’s fist even a small to medium size cage is enough room for them to live in. This in turn translates into a smaller foot print of the cage size being needed for placement in the home. For many new owners this part of ownership doesn’t dawn on them until they get the bird home and find out you have to put the cage somewhere.

Of course being a smaller bird means they eat less and drink less water. This in turn means they make less mess with their food and water. Yet another plus to the neophyte bird owner. The big parrots have large appetites and often meticulous ones and they will definitely make a bigger mess with their food and water.

Summary

I would have to say that out of all of the parrots I believe the cockatiel to be the most widely accepted as a new bird owners first parrot. Add to that they even make a good “upgrade” so to speak for the budgie and parakeet owners. There are pros and cons to any species of bird but for the most part the pros far out weigh the cons when it comes to cockatiel ownership.

Parrots have been kept in captivity for a long time but only the parakeet and cockatiel have adapted to it so well. The bigger parrots many of them are caught out in the wild and can be very troublesome to deal with for a long time and possibly the whole time you have them. Cockatiels even the parent fed ones are the absolute easiest to get along with of the parrot species. I highly recommend a cockatiel to any bird owner or especially to the first time parrot owner.

Rick Roberts is an avid bird enthusiast. Visit his new website dedicated to parrots and their owners at http://www.yourparrot.com This website is dedicated to his bird Casey a blue crown conure that lived for 13 years and was one of his favorite pets.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rick_Roberts

Parrot Types

by Anna Hart

You walk by a bird shop, or visit the aviary at the zoo, and there may be several types of parrots. You study them, and begin to wonder, “What types of parrots are there anyway? How many types of parrots are there?”

Actually, there are more than 350 parrot types when you consider every species and sub-species in the group. Many of the most common parrot types are from Australasia and the tropics.

Parrot Families

All parrots, of whatever parrot types or breeds they are, belong to the scientific order Psittaciformes. That scientific order is further broken down into two different parrot families: Cacatuidae and Psittacidae.

The Cacatuidae family includes only the Cockatoo, a bird that is native to Australia and islands near that continent.

The second parrot family, the Psittacidae, includes all of the true parrot types.

Cockatoos

To most people, the cockatoo is a large white parrot with a feathered head crest that it can lift high in regal splendor. That is, however, only one of the parrot types in this family. There are 21 different cockatoos, and not every one is white.

1. The palm cockatoo is mostly dark gray, with red cheek patches below the eyes – cheek patches that change to a deeper red when the bird becomes excited or alarmed.

2. The male gang-gang cockatoo is dark gray with a cherry red head and red crest. This parrot type is often called the red-headed cockatoo.

3. The Major Mitchell’s cockatoo is often called a pink cockatoo due to its soft pastel pink shade.

4. The cockatiel’s plumage is mid-grey on top, lighter grey underneath. It has an orange cheek patch, and a prominent white blaze on its wings. It has a much longer tail than the other cockatoos have.

So Cockatoos are not always a white parrot type, and not all cockatoos are the same in build.

True Parrots

This family includes all of the other commonly-known parrot types. The list that follows is not intended to be exhaustive, but in this family, you will find parrot types such as these:

1. African Greys: This is said to be the most intelligent of all the parrot types. A large gray parrot with a red tail, some of these bird have vocabularies approaching 1,000 words or more.

2. Amazons: This popular parrot type includes about 27 sub-types. Most are large, affectionate, and predominantly green.

3. Budgies: Officially known as a parakeet or budgerigar, this parrot type is small and colorful. It is one of the most popular parrot pets.

4. Conures: This parrot type seems to be a group of large parakeets. With long tails and strong beaks, these “clowns” come in a variety of colors.

5. Eclectus: Eclectus Parrots are unusual in their coloring. On the one hand, males are bright green, with beaks like bright candy corn, tails and wings of blue or red. Females, on the other hand, have red heads, blue breasts, and the same red or blue wings and tails. In place of the candy corn look, they have black beaks.

6. Lovebirds: Lovebirds are a small, stocky parrot type – among the smallest in the world. Many are green, sometimes with red faces or eye rings.

7. Macaws: Native to South America, this is the largest parrot type in wingspan and length. The blue and gold macaw is especially beautiful.

8. Parrotlets: These may look like parakeets at first glance, but this small parrot type has a broader body and tail than the parakeet.

9. Pionus: There are many parrot types under the name Pionus parrot, and this larger, quieter parrot comes in many varieties of color.

10. Quakers: This parrot type is often called a Monk Parrot or Grey-breasted Parakeet. It is a name that comes from facial feathering that resembles an old-fashioned Quaker costume.

There are many more parrot types than this article can list or discuss, even in a surface manner. You will find muc more information in your library or bookstore.

Best Parrot Types for Children’s Pets

A final question is this: “What types of parrots are there that would make good children’s pets?”

Many children are drawn to large parrots because of their colors or their reputation for talking well, but the large parrot types are not good pets for children. They require firm handling and training, and do well as pets only when the owner has had experience first with smaller parrots.

The best parrot type for a child’s pet is the Budgerigar, aka budgie or parakeet. The small Budgerigar requires the least amount of care, and is easily trained to talk and do tricks. Budgies that are young, or those that have no cage mate, will learn most readily.

©2007, Anna Hart. An avid reader and researcher, Anna explores parrot information, and offers her gleanings at http://www.parrots-of-the-world.com If you want to read more about a specific parrot type, you won’t want to miss Anna’s articles.

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African Grey Parrot – Einstein Talking Up A Storm

by Anna Hart

African Grey parrots are not the most colorful among parrots of the world, as the name indicates. Whether your African Grey is of the Congo or Timneh subspecies, the bird will be predominantly grey in color. The Congo African Grey will have a bright, cherry red tail, while the Timneh African Grey's tail will be maroon.

African Grey parrots are very intelligent. It has been said that they have an intellect similar to that of dolphins and chimpanzees. African Grey parrots have the ability to mimic up to 2,000 different sounds. They can understand the use of many words they learn, and are known to be the best talking parrots.

Einstein, a talking African Grey, is living proof of this. Einstein has been talking up a storm in a Knoxville, Tennessee zoo. Einstein's trainer, Stephanie White, says that it is natural for African Grey parrots to enjoy mimicking sounds. Einstein, though, seems exceptionally good at mimicking. White believes Einstein can make more than 200 different sounds, many of which are English words.

"If she hears a sound that she likes, she'll start to repeat it over and over. Then we'll put it on cue," says White.

Is Einstein Male or Female?


African Grey parrots of both sexes look the same, so no one knows whether Einstein is male or female. The zoo's veterinarians could tell with a blood test, but the zoo has decided not to do it. Einstein lives happily with the name of a great male scientist, and a feminine pronoun.

Einstein – a Talking African Grey's Bio


Einstein, the talking African Grey parrot, hatched in California in 1987. He did not live in a zoo at first. He lived with a California couple. Not for sale, the Congo African Grey was donated to the Zoo in 1992 at age 5.

When Einstein arrived at the Knoxville Zoo, she soared from unknown African Grey parrot to star status. Einstein was an immediate hit in the zoo's new Bird Show. Visitors loved the show, which features free-flight, natural behaviors of about 14 birds and a few other animals. However, the African Grey quickly became the star.

Einstein does not stay at the zoo every day. Nor does she limit her vocabulary to words and sounds her trainers want her to learn. One day, the African Grey was riding in a car on the way to a school show-and-tell. Suddenly, she began to sing "Happy Birthday" to her shocked trainers. No one knew when and how she learned the song, but she knew it.

Einstein is not only the star of Knoxville Zoo's Bird Show. She is also a popular "spokesbird" for the zoo and for Knoxville tourism.

Although Einstein is about 22 years old as I write this (early 2007), she will never behave or understand as a 22-year old human. African Grey parrots have the intellectual capacity of a 5-year old child. Emotionally, they are more like a 2-year old human. Those who live with African Grey parrots are constantly reminded of this.

African Grey – the Right Pet for You?


Einstein, the talking African Grey is amazing. You should be aware, however, that not all African Greys are like Einstein. The Knoxville Zoo has another African Grey parrot named Allie. Allie has learned only a handful of words. Perhaps Allie is shy of talking because Einstein is so good. Perhaps Allie is just not motivated.

Certainly many African Grey parrots do learn to talk. A privately-owned, 10-year old African Grey in Texas – also named Einstein - is credited with knowing 122 words, 94 phrases, and 21 sounds.

If you purchase an African Grey parrot, and patiently work with it, you will probably be able to teach it to talk.

©2007, Anna Hart. Anna Hart, a career educator and writer, has researched African Grey parrots carefully for you. Anna invites you to read more of her articles about parrots of the world at http://www.parrots-of-the-world.com. If you would like more information on African Grey parrots, you won’t want to miss Anna’s articles.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anna_Hart


All About Senegal Parrots

By Low Jeremy

If you are looking for a pet parrot that is best for the whole family, then you must consider a Senegal parrot. Most pet lovers and parrot pet traders agree that Senegal parrots have been popular family pet birds because of their lively and engaging personality.

But, before you finally purchase a Senegal parrot and make it a family pet bird, you must be knowledgeable about its traits and characteristics for you to have an idea how it should be taken care of.

According to parrot experts, the Senegal parrot one of the best-known members of the entire Poicephalus family for having compact and cuddly physical traits and a very playful attitude. Frequently seen in pet shops around the United States and Europe, Senegal parrots originated from the north central part of Africa.

Unlike other parrot species, parrots posses an entirely different nature which are extremely playful, gentle and sweet in temperament that is perfect for its charming personality, cleverness, clear speech, and manageable behavior. They are also quieter but are good talkers if taught and trained properly. Since they possess much tamer nature, are known to be less demanding especially if they are given daily attention and interaction.

SENEGAL PARROT 101

Senegal parrots are the most commonly kept Poicephalus birds there are. Identified for being a green bird with a gray head, Senegal parrots are famous for sporting different colored under parts, either its belly or vest with a bright yellow iris.

Senegal parrots can be divided into three sub-species that can easily be characterized by the color of their bellies as well as by their following names that include Poicephalus senegalus senegalus hailing from Southern Mauritania, southern Mali to Guinea and from the Island of Los, these are known as the nominate race and has a yellow belly; Poicephalus senegalus versteri originates from the Ivory Coast and Ghana east to western Nigeria and has red belly; and Poicephalus senegalus mesotypus coming from Eastern and North- eastern Nigeria, northern Cameroon into south-western Chad and has an orange belly.

These parrots live in moist woodlands and on the edges of the grasslands. They primarily feed on seeds, fruits, and grains particularly the seed of locust beans and newly formed buds of a various trees.

A Senegal parrot’s diet should consist of a good quality seed mixture of nuts, seeds, lean meat, biscuits, fruits, and vegetables—either raw or cooked. Vitamin and mineral supplements are also given to meet the nutritional need of the parrot.

Hand reared Senegal parrots are the most suitable pets because they are small enough to handle and can be placed in a medium sized parrot cage. These should be kept in cages or aviaries where they can eat and sleep. Preferably, Senegal parrots should be housed in relatively small cages manufactured for “small birds” and should be provided with lots of toys, T-stands and swings.

Senegal parrots are not as great talkers like the African Grey parrots but have the ability to learn a vocabulary depending on the owner’s patience to teach. Senegals can be bought from $149 to $500.


This content is provided by Low Jeremy and may be used only in its entirety with all links included. For more info on Pet Parrots, please visit http://pet-parrot.articlekeep.com

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African Grey Parrots' Food

By Anna Hart

When you invite an African Grey parrot to share your home, you are taking on a long-term responsibility to provide a good diet for that parrot for 50 years or more. Many owners fail to do this, even for a few months. Believing that bird seed is enough, they purchase a large bag of mixed seed, and feed their African Grey. Seeds are cheap, so bird food companies push them.

African Grey parrots' food must not be only seed, however. Such an incomplete, imbalanced diet is likely to cause illness. Seeds are high in fat and carbohydrates, and your African Grey will probably pick out its favorite seeds, making the diet even less balanced.

Most parrot experts agree that an African Grey parrots' food needs can only be met with a formula diet supplemented with a variety of other foods.

Organic Pellets

What is a formula diet for an African Grey? Organic pellets. I say "organic" pellets because many of the conventional pellets have unhealthy ingredients. Some have even been noted as containing potentially toxic ingredients.

African Grey parrots' food should never contain menadione. If the pellets you are considering for your African Grey list menadione as an ingredient, read on. The FDA requires a warning on every bag of food that contains it. That warning must read, "Person who handles needs to wear protective outfit, gloves, mask, and glasses."

Menadione may be added to give your African Grey additional vitamin K. A better option is to provide full spectrum light for your parrot. An African Grey will get vitamin K from the light, just as it would if living outdoors.

Organic pellets also let your African Grey avoid the high quantities of sugar in colored pellets. Most African Grey parrot owners care enough about the bird in which they've invested so much money, that they don't want to give it a diet that is high in sugar.

African Grey parrots' food that is based on organic pellets will be free of contaminants that might be found in other pellets. In the U.S., government regulations force companies making organic parrot food not to use pesticides or other contaminants.

In addition to a basic, formulated pellet food, African Greys need many of the same food you eat.

1. Fresh vegetables: Offer your African Grey a wide variety of vegetables, raw or cooked. Think bright, deep colors for the most nutrition. Most vegetables that offer high nutrition to you and your family will be good for your parrot as well. Cooked legumes such as beans and lentils are good. Sprouted seeds are also good. Your African Grey will love them. To avoid contaminants such as pesticides, you may want to use organic vegetables for African Grey parrots' food.

2. Fresh fruits: In the wild, African Greys eat fruit freely. The trick is to keep your parrot from filling up on its favorite food and neglecting pellets and vegetables. As with vegetables, choose bright, rich colors in fruit for the most nutrition. Also, purchase organic if possible.

3. Other supplemental foods: African Grey parrots enjoy cooked eggs and small amounts of yogurt now and then. African Greys are more prone than some parrots to calcium deficiency, so you may leave the egg shell on the hard boiled egg, if you wish. You should not need to give your parrot calcium supplements if you are using a good organic pellet food. You may give a few seeds as a treat, but go easy on them.

No, Thank You


African Grey parrots' food dishes should never contain avocado, chocolate, or rhubarb. They should not contain any human junk foods or processed meats either. It should go without saying, but your African Grey should never be given anything containing caffeine or alcohol.

Water, Please


Remember, when thinking of your African Grey's dietary needs, that it should have fresh, clean water in its cage at all times.

Helpful Tip


For healthy African Greys, be sure you clean the food and water dishes every day. If your parrot decides on an impromptu bath, wait until it is done, wash the water dish, and give it a fresh supply of water.

©2007, Anna Hart. An avid reader and researcher, Anna explores many parrot breeds and offers more information about African Grey Parrots and their care at http://www.parrots-of-the-world.com. If you are interested in learning about parrot food made at home, you won’t want to miss the information Anna shares on that subject.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anna_Hart


A Bad Parrot Training Technique For Macaws

by Chet Womach

When I first decided to become a parrot trainer I read up on all sorts of training techniques from supposedly good parrot trainers. These trainer's birds were amazing. Their Green Wing Macaws were capable of jumping off the top of hotel roofs, without any restraints and would willingly fly down from the roof and land on their trainers hand.

It was an amazing thing to watch, so amazing that I decided to follow all instructions he gave me to the core. I obeyed everything he said, including a method that I later realized was FAR from the best way to train a parrot not to bite.

The method that this trainer taught me was what is known in the animal training industry as flooding. Flooding is where you put an animal in a situation and force it to comply with whatever means is necessary. In my case I was trying to get my Blue and Gold Macaws to willingly come out of their cages without biting me. And I was instructed to take two wooden dowels, one in each hand, and proceed to forcibly pet my Blue and Gold Macaws with the wooden dowels.

Obviously my macaws did not like this situation as they didn't like being touched. But I was instructed that they would soon realize that the touching was OK, and that I (the trainer) was the boss, and not the bird.

This technique was to be executed so as never to harm the bird, but scare it into submission. My blue and Golds would scream, flap their wings and bite at the sticks, and each time the did so I was to overwhelm them even more by touching them with the other stick in my other hand until they realized there was no hope and finally gave up.

Luckily for me this technique works on Macaws that like to attack their owners, but it's woefully ineffective on other species of parrots, especially certain species that are prone to running away in fear vs. holding their ground and putting up a fight like my blue and gold Macaws were.

In hind sight there are much more gentle approaches to training that not only work faster than the flooding method I've just described, but work for helping parrots of all temperaments learn to not bite. It involves putting a parrot in situations where he has to choose to do or not do something, and is rewarded for the correct choice, and ignored with the wrong choice.

The end result is a parrot who realizes that you are trying to communicate with him in a nice way because you've never scared him or hurt him. Plus the parrot realizes that life with you is a puzzle... and it's his job to figure out, because there's always a nice treat in it for him if he can figure out the answer.

This type of training is extremely mentally stimulating and with just a few short practice sessions a week with a parrot can be the perfect preventative medicine for all sorts of behavior problems like feather plucking, screaming, and boredom.

About the Author

To learn more about how Chet Womach teaches positive reinforcement my Blue and Gold Macaws visit http://www.birdtricks.com/macaws.html and sign up for my free ezine jam packed with parrot training tips you can start using today.

The Complex Behavior Beyond The Parrot Bite

by Dalvin Rumsey

Parrots' behavior is commonly misunderstood by people who have them as pets. Parrots have a complex behavior which is a little harder to manage by a person, not as the case of a dog for instance. Parrots are intelligent, beautiful and entertaining birds. Nowadays, parrots' care and behavior books and videos can be found everywhere and seem to be the new main branch in the pet industry.

Parrots bite when they play

Out of curiosity, a parrot must investigate the surrounding objects and environment. As every being has its own way of investigating, because nature gave senses to all of them but in different ways, the parrots use their beak. It is the caregiver's duty to let the parrot know how far it should go on the investigation and how it can play or byte just by talking. A loud shout of a human has the similar effect as an adult bird's vocalization to communicate with the youngsters and let them know the limits, out in the wilderness.

Aggression for territory delimitation

It is a parrot's instinct to protect its territory from intruders. In the wild life, parrots associate in pairs and protect their nesting territories. They do the same thing in captivity, the only difference is that they associate with the caregiver and defend the territory together against intruders. The best way they can "fight" the intruders is by biting.

Parrots bite when they fear

Biting is also used as a defense mechanism by the birds. This comes from the instinct too. In the wild, a bird that fears something can always fly away but in captivity, the birds are usually denied the ability to fly so they remain with their biting ability alone.

Biting as a way of communication

Many birds may learn to byte as a way to ask for something, for something to eat or for peace. This kind of aggression has many forms of expressing. Maybe some parrots find out that a light byte on the owner's hand will respond with a piece of something that the owner is eating; other parrots may try to say by biting that they want to be left alone. This kind of aggression is thought by the bird and can become a habit. If the parrot gets the desired effect on the byte, it will most likely repeat it.

In a relationship between a parrot and his owner, things may be a little more complicated than any other relationships between humans and pets because of the instinct of the parrot. The parrot will never do something it doesn't want to and there are not to many ways to force him, not even in the wild. The relationship must be based on understanding and communicating because the birds are very receptive to any forms of communication and they show as much compassion as they receive. A person should learn to read the parrot's language, its ways of communication, the way it moves and the way it reacts to things or actions. It is important for the human not to be dominating in the relation and to work things out by treating the parrot as an equal not as a thing.

About the Author

You can find research information about the amazon parrot and parrot cages on our website, http://www.parrot-care.com

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Pet Adoption

by Michael Malega

This papers is all about the matter that you have been looking for, take your time to read.

The idea of having a pet is something that many people debate but they seldom take the various needs of their new pet into account when they decide to adopt a pet. For these people the pets that they see in pet stores and at the pet shelters are ones to take home. Sometimes this pet adoption idea is based on the cute looks of a pet. It is only when the pet adoption is realized and they take their new pet home do they begin to see the realness and the responsibilities of having a pet at home with them.

Thence when you decide on a pet adoption you should decide what kind of pet you will have the ability to take of. There are many different types of animals that can be reasoned as being good to have as pets. These pets can include dogs, cats, rabbits, hamsters, guinea pigs, love birds, parrots and fish.

In a pet adoption you will need to take into account the versatile necessarily of your new pet. These necessarily can be seen as the animal’s emotional, mental and the physical state. When you are looking into a pet adoption these are very real facts that you will have to address.

As these diverse animals have different requirements to ensure their wellness you will have to talk with an animal veterinarian, staff at animal shelters or even animal to find the assorted facts that are needful in the care of your new pet. You will need data about their day-after-day likes and dislikes.

The dietary needs and health requirements of your pet will need to be discussed with a vet. This way you will know what types of food that you should be giving your pet to insure its health. In a pet adoption process you will be able to find out the best ways to keep your pet healthy by giving the pet the best types of food that you can.

To keep your pet’s health and happiness at the optimal point you should control that you have the appropriate environment and accessories for your new pet. These and many other facts will need to be discussed by your integral family before the pet adoption is completed.

When you are looking for into adopting a pet you should reckon seeing the various animals that are waiting to be adoptive into a good home. Pet adoptions are the best way to give these animals a second chance at finding good families.

Thanks for version and good luck putting this info to good use.

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